Thursday, November 22, 2012
Monday, November 12, 2012
Monday, October 29, 2012
Thursday, October 25, 2012
Small cheat #1
There are some things that may be considered by some to be cardinal sins and in most cases it's how i feel about them as well. However the keyword phrases here are "in moderation" and "when in a pinch".
One of those sins is to use an image of a certain size in a situation requiring a bigger size by resizing it and in the process make the image blurry. However what can you do in a case where you have no other choice than to use said picture? It doesn't matter if it's too small or anything, there is a reason that you just have to use that specific one and you can't get it bigger. Well there is a cheat that you can do to try and hide the blurriness. Again this works if the image is slightly blurry, CSI magic is just that; magic in a TV series. The "cheat" isn't about making the image sharper as there is already a sharpening filter in Photoshop (which sometimes introduces sharpening artifacts). Instead it is to make the image look as if it is sharp enough or more specifically trick the eye into seeing more resolution and details than it really has.
So what is this semi-solution to blurry image sin? Noise filter. No wait, don’t hang me yet, I’m not talking about uncontrollable amounts of noise and yes; it’s not a silver bullet, it doesn’t always work nor does it have a standard amount of noise that works. It’s really easy to pull it off in Photoshop though, you set the noise filter in monochrome as you want to add false detail, not color blotches. Then you play around with the noise amount slider to find the value that works for your image, starting from the very left to just add a tiny bit amount of noise making it look more like fine film grain than noise. For my taste it's the point where the noise barely starts to get visible. Oh and btw it works better with photos that are in monochrome. (And that means any colour, not just black and white.)
Friday, October 5, 2012
Sunday, September 23, 2012
Putting things into perspective
If you have
an SLR or dSLR camera then chances are, you are wondering which lens to buy,
which working focal length to invest in. Well in case you haven’t figured it
out yet, the answer is simple (in the sense of choosing your focal length), get
what you need for the things you like shooting the most. And please don’t ask
about “how X zoom” the lens has, as that is just a marketing trick and means
nothing about the lens really. A 70-200mm zoom lens is less useful than a 24mm fixed length if what you like shooting is street scenes, and like wise a 600mm lens is more useful than a 17-85mm zoom lens if you like shooting wild life. If you are still confusing the wide and narrow
focal lengths, think of it like this: The higher the mm number, the further
away you’ll see. The smaller the number, the closer you’ll be able to see (This is just a way of thinking about it if you are confused, the mm rating means something else in reality!).
200mm is narrower than 24mm because it translates into an angle of view; with a
200mm lens having a narrower view cone than the 24mm.
Another
thing that a lens’s focal length changes is the perspective, or how things
look. People keep saying that you need a 40-50mm lens. The reason behind it
might stem from the fact that it was the lens being given away with cameras
most often back when film SLR cameras started popping out or that lenses in that focal range are closer to
the human eye in terms of perspective distortion, or rather the lack of it.
What do I mean with that is that lenses outside that range tend to change how things
look depending on how much wider or narrower the focal length is when compared
to the 40-50 range. Check out the old stone olive press.
The reason
is that the wider the lens, the closer you can get your subject. But the closer
you get, the closer some elements of your subject get to the lens, while the
things further away don’t, or at least not in any significant distance.
Remember those scenes in comedies where the teacher points at a pupil and the
view from the pupil is distorted with the teacher’s finger almost touching the
kid’s nose, an elongated arm like a bridge and the teacher almost in the back
of the frame? That is what you get when you use a really wide lens and have a
subject that is really really close to it. If you go narrower than the 40-50mm
range into let’s say 200+, then you get the exact opposite effect. Things get
squashed and they lose their extreme depth.
So,
remember that when you want to take some portraits. Don’t put up your ultra
wide lens and go close to them or they will start complaining about their nose
looking like Rudolf. Use a narrower range, like let’s say 70-80 and just take a
few steps back if you are too close. (On the other hand, if you are going to
take pics of some kids with a sense of humor, you might want to use that ultra
wide to make for some wacky perspective.)
Saturday, September 8, 2012
Faces everywhere #2
omg OMG! Is my hair falling the wrong side?! OMG!
Or at least that is what this upside down mounted outlet made me think. I have this snobby sounding voice in my head when i see it. Even the way the light hits the internal safety mechanism in its "mouth" and the LD letters as its nose.
(click on it for a bigger version)
Friday, August 31, 2012
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